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Bringing Your Puppy Home
Tips for Your Pomsky Patch Puppy's
Smooth Transition

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... and never miss a litter!


You've made a decision to adopt a Pomsky puppy, and may have even taken the first step of reserving your puppy by making a deposit. Things are getting REAL, and your mind is starting to fill with questions about what you need to do in order to be ready when you pick up your new little companion.

We've seen this happen dozens of times as new adoptions take place. For those who like to prepare in advance, we have compiled this list of frequently asked questions, along with our best answers. We encourage you to take a few minutes and read it through. We're confident you'll not only see one of your own questions here, but you'll also have the opportunity to learn from our experience. Please note, that we have included links below that you should explore when we make a recommendation for products or services, in order to get a more full understanding of what we are telling you. Bear in mind, every breeder will have their own approach, and this is ours. If you choose to adopt a Pomsky Patch puppy, this info will set you up for success.

If you don't see your specific question here, please feel free to ask us at Here we go...



  • No. We believe it would be best to wait and have your puppy with you when selecting a new collar, so that you can pick one that is the right size and looks best on her. 

  • Tip: Our local PetSmart let us know a short time back that they will REPLACE a KONG BRAND collar or leash if the dog destroys it (by chewing), which has happened for us many times over. You will need to produce a receipt from when you originally purchased it. Talk to the store manager and let them know you learned this from a friend, and ask if this is something that they do at your store location.

  • You’ll also want to size whichever collar you select to your puppy's neck right there in the store, knowing that she will eventually grow out of it. Sized properly, you should be able to get 2-3 fingers under the collar. If the pup can back out of it at any time, you’ve got it too loose.

  • As for leashes, we love the retractable kinds, and we prefer a length no longer than 16 feet during the early phases of training. We also prefer the tape or belt type over a corded type. The cord types can cause friction burns more quickly should your puppy bolt around someone’s legs
    while on-leash



  • We recommend a harness for walking, and a collar for ID ONLY.

  • Many small breed dogs can develop problems with the trachea as they get older, and though the veterinary community has not been able to clearly identify all the causes for this, we believe the use of a harness, rather than a collar for walking, will eliminate at least ONE potential contributing factor, especially if your puppy's Husky nature makes him prone to pulling
    (i.e., taking YOU for a walk!)

  • We trust the Sense-ible No-Pull Dog Harness. It was recommended by our trainer and it’s been the best… even on our larger dogs. This harness is designed to make it difficult for dogs of any size to pull against, making the walk that much more enjoyable for you. When pup tries to pull, all you have to do is lift slightly on the lead, and pup finds himself/herself oddly off balance. They quickly learn that the best place to be while out on a walk, is right by your side!


  • First, you'll want to check out a post I wrote on this subject a few months back. We never leave our dogs alone with any cloth toys that can be shredded into long strips or strings… they WILL ingest them, and that can lead to lots of harm and heartbreak.

  • Our dogs love rubber chew toys that have "squeakers"inside. These toys are a favorite and usually don't last but a few days. Once the toy has been disemboweled, and the squeaker is gone, we collect it up before our pups can start chewing it into smaller pieces that they will swallow.

  • We have become a BIG fan of deer antler! This is another favorite among our pack and is an excellent source of calcium, which is great for dogs of all ages, but especially growing puppies. Antler is better than bone in many ways, but one huge win is that it DOES NOT SPLINTER, which would otherwise pose a choking threat. Our dogs seem to crave the antler at times and will sit for long periods just grinding them to powder with their teeth, swallowing it in small amounts. A single antler in a house with only one dog can last a year or longer, depending on both the size of the dog and the size of the antler. Be Warned: these can be somewhat pricey if a pet store is your only source. TIP: Find someone around you who has a hunting addiction, and he/she can probably hook you up with antler for life!

  • NOTE: If you're adopting a Pomsky Patch puppy, your pup will come to you with a chew toy or two and a blanket that he is already familiar with. We believe this helps ease the stress of transitioning with all the new smells and surroundings of his new home.



  • Our most versatile training treats are actually a specific brand of  DOG FOOD!

  • Bil-Jac can usually be found at a grocery store in your neighborhood, but you'll need to look in the freezer section!

  • We bring a 5 lb. bag home...

    • let it partially thaw...

    • divide it into snack baggies...

    • then refreeze it.

    • This process helps it last longer without spoiling.

    • Keep one baggie thawed in the fridge - ready for use!

  • When not frozen, it is soft pellets that can be given individually OR wadded into larger balls.

  • These are high value training treats that our dogs go absolutely nuts for.


  • When puppies are new-born, for the first few weeks Mom is the "clean-up crew" who takes care of puppy droppings.

  • As puppies grow and begin moving around better, we introduce pine/cedar pellets into their whelping box. These pellets are often sold and used as horse bedding because of their absorbancy. They are commonly stocked and sold at any Tractor Supply store.

  • Over time, we constrict the area where these pellets can be found in their pen, and they begin to instinctively look for the tray of pellets to do their "business."

  • At 8 weeks old, our pups are starting to catch on that it's better to use the pan to go potty.

  • We gradually move the pellet pan close to the door that will eventually be used to exit the house to relieve themselves.

  • When we catch them in the act of making a mistake, we gently scoop them up and place them in the pellets to finish.

  • When they make it to the pellets on their own, it's a BIG DEAL and we celebrate it as such, with treats and all! We even celebrate "near misses!" (TIP: let them finish before starting the celebration. You don't want to startle them in the act... this would be counter-productive.)

  • Note: The longer pups are with us, the deeper we go into this training. There is no reason you can't pick up where we left off. We are here to advise you through it.

  • Puppies going to their new homes at 8 weeks, will have limited experience with the pellets, so please be patient with them.

  • CAUTION: As an aside, we strongly advise that you not place your puppy on the ground anywhere outside your home until they reach full immunity (usually around Week 16, if you have been diligent to have their vaccination boosters every 3 weeks.) Parvovirus (CPV) has been shown to live in the soil for up to two years, and presents a serious threat to your little one.



  • You may want to pick up some Training Pads to use around the house as places for your puppy to pee and poo on during the early phase house training.

  • Be prepared for her to be confused with her new surroundings.

  • When she makes her first ooops, take one of those pads and blot the piddle up with it, using the absorbent side, then...

  • take the pad and place it (dry side down) near the door which you will eventually end up taking her through to do her business outside.

  • This will become a scent post for her.

  • If you see her going somewhere else try to verbally disrupt her concentration, then gently scoop her up and place her on that pad.

  • Even at 8 Weeks, she is much smarter than you will initially think.

  • When you begin to see her using the pad (even if it’s a “near-miss”) be sure to praise her generously after she’s done (not while she’s going or she’ll think she’s doing wrong and get freaked-out, wondering "who are these crazy people? I can't seem to get it right!"

  • You may find the pads to be a little easier for you, since you are dealing with one little pup who doesn’t eat, drink, pee, or poo much, making it a little easier to keep after. When we have larger litters of puppies to train, the pellets are definitely the way to go.


  • Since the purpose of this post is to assist The Pomsky Patch parents, our focus for now is to ensure your success in acclimating YOU to your new puppy, and YOUR PUPPY to his new home and family. There are many differing positions on the subject of dog nutrition these days, and we will not be addressing those here, but perhaps we will enter that discussion on a future post.

  • For now, we want to let you know that by Week 8, your Pomsky Patch puppy has be introduced to a diet of dry puppy kibble (we are no longer softening the kibble.)

  • Though we have tried many, we have settled on Purina Pro Plan / Small Breed, which is available in several flavor selections.

  • If you choose to continue this diet regimen, you can find this variety at most larger pet stores and occasionally at your local Walmart.

  • Today, you also have the option of ordering your dog food online through services like,, etc. They'll sometimes have it on your doorstep in as little as two days.

  • To get you started, though, we will be sending a small zippered bag of the same food your puppy has been eating for weeks. This will supply the pup for a few days, when feeding it straight.

  • Should you choose another brand of food, we recommend mixing what we send home for your puppy with your preferred brand, gradually increasing the mix to include more and more of the new food each day.

  • This will ease your little one's ability to digest the new food properly and will limit the loosening of his/her stool.


Your Starter Packet

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  • It's not a matter of IF, but rather WHEN your little buddy does his business in the worst possible place... carpeted floors. Even worse is when you don't see it right away and the urine has time to soak through to the pad.

  • Nature's Miracle Urine Destroyer lives up to its name. It does not use harsh chemicals to clean and sanitize, but rather uses enzymes to break down the urine and the accompanying odor, which only seems to worsen the longer it is left to sit.

  • The container has clear directions for how to use in certain situations, but essentially instructs you to blot up as much moisture out of the carpet as possible using a clean towel, then saturating the spot with the solution and letting stand for about 10 minutes, before blotting the solution up with a second clean towel.

  • Let air dry after treatment.

  • We also use the solution on tile and hardwood floors when puppy has pee'd. If all you were to do was to wipe the puddle up with paper towel, you may remove the moisture, but you're leaving plenty of scent behind. Puppy will use this as a scent post and use the same spot repeatedly, much to your dismay.

  • To treat these areas, mist with a spray bottle containing full strength solution, let it sit for about a minute, then use a swiffer mop or paper towel to dry the area.

  • It would be wise to test the solution in an out of the way place to ensure it doesn't hurt your floor. We have never had an issue with marking on our own finished floors.

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... and never miss a litter!

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